The Philippines, an island paradise with some exquisite destinations that go under the radar. Stephen Bailey recalls two holidays there and gives recommendations.
It’s a country of majestic islands. Of white sand beaches, hidden beaches and turquoise waters for marine adventures. A magnificent country with welcoming and friendly locals, but also some horribly crowded destinations to avoid.
From his personal experiences, Stephen explains the differences between the key Philippines destinations, including hotel and activity recommendations.
Introducing the Philippines
The best time to holiday in the Philippines is during European winter, November to April is ideal.
Welcome to the world’s largest archipelago, without any land borders. The Philippines has over 7600 islands spread across four different seas.
I’ve been fortunate to explore over 20 of these islands. The reason I love the Philippines is the combination of relaxing beach holiday and adventure. On any trip you will easily have both.
My biggest recommendations are the Palawan archipelago in the northeast and the island of Siargao in the south.
Across the country I’ve explored volcanoes, rainforest and rice paddies too. But the reason to visit the Philippines is the coastline, not the interior.
On certain islands you have a real opportunity to explore, to take a dirt bike, quad bike or private boat to incredible beaches completely off the tourist trail.
My first trip was to Manila and northern Philippines, when I fell in love with Palawan. Recently I explored the centre and south, where Siargao island is my favourite.
Manila
Manila is a big, overcrowded, polluted Asian city. It can be fun for a night, but minimise your time here.
Usually it’s only on an itinerary for logistical reasons, as Manila is the biggest international airport and onward transit hub.
In Manila the two best hotels are Raffles Makati and The Peninsula Manila. Bothhave a similar location in the city’s most upmarket district.
Emirates and Qatar Airways also fly to Cebu in the centre of the country. It’s another good transit hub, but no more appealing than Manila!
Palawan Archipelago in North Philippines
Paradise. Breathtaking beaches, stunning waters, thousands of beautiful and quiet places that remain unexplored.
Palawan is already famous. In 2011 its underground river was voted as one of the New Seven Wonders of Nature – it’s a massive tourist trap.
In 2016 Palawan was voted the most beautiful island in the world by both Conde Nast Traveller and Travel + Leisure magazines.
Sweeping white beaches are backdropped by mountains and rainforest, while striking limestone karst jut out from the sea. The area is biosphere reserve with excellent snorkelling and diving.
I remember a three-night boat charter we did, cruising through the karst and caves, picnics on uninhabited islands, and quiet nights in sheltered bays. For me it was far more impressive than world famous HaLong Bay in Vietnam, where the landscape is similar.
Although the boats aren’t as luxurious as in the Mediterranean, it’s definitely an experience I recommend. You can also do day trips from a private island resort.
Palawan island developed from a backpacker destination and still doesn’t have any top accommodation. However, there is one stunning private island resort I can recommend – Amanpulo.
It’s secluded. Yet also surrounded by Palawan’s quintessential natural beauty and close enough to spend your days exploring.
To extend a trip and hop between islands you can also consider Pangulasian and Two Seasons Coron Island Resort, good value private island properties.
For another type of adventure, I can also recommend renting a dirt bike and exploring Palawan island, especially the undeveloped south.
Central Philippines
Central Philippines is overrated. At least in my opinion, especially the famous island of Boracay. It feels like destination that were good 25 years ago.
Boracay exemplifies why visitors fell in love with the Philippines. Soft white sand, stunning turquoise waters and insane natural beauty.
Unfortunately, Boracay exemplifies the problem of unabated mass tourism. In 2018 the island was forced to close for six months, to regenerate and solve basic problems like sewage.
I found other destinations in Central Philippines to have similar problems like Bohol and the famous Chocolate Hills. This is a heavily populated region that receives huge volumes of Asian and other tourists.
My advice is to stick to the outer islands, which are more beautiful, less discovered and much quieter.
Siargao, South Philippines
Siargao is an island gem quickly being discovered. Once a secret of surf pros, it’s now a tropical island destination with a bohemian vibe and untamed nature.
Southern Philippines stayed far off the tourist radar because it has been subject to negative travel advisories from most major governments. Note that travel advisories have never affected Siargao.
The south of the country feels like stepping 30 years back in time. It feels very authentic and there are very few other tourists.I recently travelled across the large southern island of Mindanao and it never felt unsafe.
The highlight is undoubtedly Siargao. Turquoise lagoons surrounded by green mountains, numerous white-sand beaches and cool little islets to explore off the coast. And awesome surf breaks, like Cloud 9, which hosts a WSL event every year.
Siargao is made complete by the best resort in the Philippines – Nay Palad Hideaway.
It’s one of Asia’s best beach retreats, the essence of barefoot luxury and staying in harmony with the surroundings.
I also loved the size of Siargao. It feels spacious, remote and serene, with the true idea of barefoot luxury. Yet there are so many fun activities you can easily do on a morning or afternoon.
Like kayaking or paddle boarding in the lagoons. Swimming in tidal rock pools. A boat trip to an islet for lunch. Chasing the waves with a guide and a quad bike. Exploring the neighbouring island of Corregidor and Sohoton Cave National Park.
My only regret is spending only five days on Siargao. I would have been happy here for at least two weeks!
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