Štĕpán Borovec experiences a Christmas time journey on the Orient Express, with recommendations for your trip on the iconic train.
His report includes a comparison of the cabin and suite categories, itinerary options, key highlights of the journey and why the train lives up to its stellar reputation.
A Cool, Classy Train Party
“Dinner time and bar time are the essence of the Orient Express,” says Stepan. “It’s not about the cabin, it’s all about this fun, social experience.”
I would love to go again, it’s a really cool and classy party. And I would just do it the same way again.
Most interesting for me was that you don’t really need, or even want to stay in a suite. If you’re young and want a good party, the historic cabins are fine. Then spend the money on a great suite in Paris when you disembark.
Orient Express Highlights
Boarding the train
Me and my wife did the Vienna to Paris route and it was one of the last trips before Christmas, so the train was decorated in true Christmas spirit. Unfortunately no snow outside, but a really nice festive atmosphere.
The departure from Vienna´s Westbahnhof was a real experience. There were musicians all along the platform. Passengers were all well dressed and all the staff were in their cool Venice Simplon-Orient-Express uniforms.
All around the platform were fans of the Orient Express. They knew it would be in Vienna and just went there to take a bunch of photos and videos. It was very cool and made us feel like celebrities!
The On-Board Crew
The Orient Express crew was the best operational team I’ve ever witnessed. They are operating in very small and tight spaces, with clients of very different ages and nationalities, on a moving train. They must trust and know exactly what to expect from each other.
The crew is predominantly Italian and I could tell they’ve been working together for many years. They seemed like a band of brothers and sisters.
Everything about the service and crew is very professional, but also very friendly and welcoming. They know exactly how to make the right vibe on the train.
Dining & Bar Time
You go for dinner and the food is amazing. It’s Belmond, it’s truly incredible gastronomy, you choose your wine, you drink Champagne.
There are two dining cars, Cote d’Azur and L’Oriental. I personally preferred Côte d’Azur but both are beautifully decorated with vintage furniture and glassware. Everyone is very well dressed and this adds to the atmosphere.
Dining is such an experience on the Orient Express. I left like I travelled 100 years back in time!
After dinner we went to the famous bar carriage 3674 and had some drinks and thought about going to bed. Then the second dinner setting finished and the bar became very lively.
That’s when the party really started! There was a pianist and two guys playing almost every instrument, singing almost any song on request!. They are amazing. They sing with the bartenders and created this intimate, classy party on a train carriage rumbling through the Alps and French countryside
The Party & Overall Vibe
The life of the train is around the bar and it’s really quite amusing.
Maybe we were fortunate to have such awesome co travellers. A fellow passenger was reading the famous Agatha Christie book and said he had wished the train to have similar characters. And it did!
There was a group of French bankers, an Eastern European oligarch with his young girlfriend, a large American family, Luxembourgers, many other interesting people and a 90-year-old couple from New York enjoying the time of their life. After one hour in the bar it felt like we knew everybody by name or face.
Everybody was so different in terms of age, background and personality. But all were on the same level of fun. This made the experience for me.
Planning Your Orient Express Journey
Comparing Cabin & Suite Options
There are four accommodation categories. All have this distinct vintage style.
- Historical cabins are the entry level. You sleep in bunk beds and there’s a small sink in the cabin. The toilet is shared with other cabins in the same carriage. No shower.
- You can book two interconnecting historical cabins, for double the space and a double bed, although still no bathrooms.
- The new suites have marble en-suite bathrooms with a shower, plus double beds.
- Grand Suites are the highest and most spacious.
The bar and restaurants are in the middle carriages of the train. On one side are the suites, with only a few suites per carriage. That area of the train is very private and quiet.
I recommend the suites for older people who can’t sleep on bunk beds, or anybody wanting privacy.
But if you are able to do one night without a shower I would recommend the historical cabin, it is part of the experience.
There are seven cabins in one carriage, so people are walking past all the time. It’s very social and fun.
I’m a big guy and thought the cabin was comfortable. You don’t have much space but you don’t really need it. We both got dressed at the same time and I slept like a baby – although maybe that was because of all the Champagne!
Each carriage has a steward that takes care of any requests, makes your bed when you go for dinner and so on. There’s ample space in the cabin for small to medium sized luggage. The steward can store a large suitcase away and bring it anytime you need.
The service is still outstanding in a historical cabin and a suite is around double the price, for essentially the same on-board experience in the restaurant and bar.
Overview of the Orient Express Program and What’s Included
There’s a bottle of Champagne waiting inside your cabin when you embark. As soon as the train departs the bar is open.
You can go to the shop which has some really nice souvenirs, like glassware and Orient Express cufflinks. The train manager can take you on a tour, show you any free suites and offer them as a reduced price upgrade (each is individually designed) and other parts of the train.
The steward serves snacks in the afternoon and brings anything you desire.
It’s a full board plan but it’s not all inclusive. All the food is included, along with all drinks during the meals and most non alcoholic drinks. But you always pay at the bar and can pay for special add ons, like caviar or vintage wines.
There are two dinner sittings and you choose once you are on the train. A tuxedo is not compulsory but you men must wear a jacket and tie or bowtie for dinner.
There are no stops for sightseeing. However, the train stops at every border in order to change the engine, so you can occasionally get off for a few moments.
After dinner and the bar you wake up the next day and are sad because it’s almost over!
They serve a small breakfast inside your cabin and then you go for brunch. It’s lavish, with silverware, three courses and Champagne.
Itinerary options for the coming year, inc Istanbul to Paris
Each itinerary is slightly different depending on the timings, but essentially you should enjoy two elaborate meals on the train.
Our trip from Vienna to Paris was the same one experienced by my colleague Matous Grund last year.
I recommend choosing a route that gives you a day on the train first. Rather than departing in the evening, when you won’t have as much time to soak up the atmosphere.
There are many routes across Europe, the most famous and common being Venice to Paris. For Vienna and Prague the 2024 options are:
- Prague to Paris, 10th July 10:30 departure
- Paris to Prague, 7th July 15:00
- Vienna to Paris, 19th May 16:00, suites sold out
- Vienna to Paris 5th October 16:00
- Vienna to Paris 17th December 14:00
- Paris to Vienna 2nd October 15:00, cabins and grand suites sold out
- Paris to Vienna 16th December 17:00
The crew’s favourite trip is the six-day Paris to Istanbul route. You spend the first, third and fifth nights sleeping on the train. In between you spend the second night at a hotel in Budapest, then the fourth night in Bucharest, with guided city experiences and dinner.
Another interesting route is the new one from Paris to Portofino in Italy, where you can disembark and stay in the excellent Splendido, A Belmond Hotel. It’s 20th to 23rd June 2024.
Pre and Post Programs
I definitely recommend going one day earlier, so you’re not stressing about making the departure and can extend the holiday experience.
We took a normal train to Vienna and stayed in the new Almanac Palais Vienna. It is okay for the price but the service feels like four-star superior not five star, although the spa is really nice for a city hotel.
After many visits to Vienna I recommend staying at the contemporary Rosewood Vienna or historical Hotel Sacher.
Strategic location is all I need in Paris. That’s why I chose Grand Hotel du Palais Royal, which is good value next to the Louvre.
We did go to inspect Cheval Blanc Paris, which is a phenomenal property and a higher level of luxury. It’s located within the redeveloped La Samaritaine and also the base for our ultimate Louis Vuitton Paris experience.
My recommendation for most people would be to get a historical cabin rather than a suite on the Orient Express, then splurge on a fantastic hotel suite in Paris, where there are some spectacular options.
Your Orient Express Journey?
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Ask us about the Orient Express. I was the third member of our team to experience this train. It’s truly a bucket list experience and it completely deserves its fame.
I can’t wait to do the Orient Express again. Or maybe I’ll experience their Royal Scotman, English Pullman or Andean Explorer train in Peru.
When will you make the journey?
