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Exploring the Old Silk Road, with Stephen Bailey

Can you travel to Kyrgyzstan? Mongolia? Iran? Yes, it’s possible! EliteVoyage Marketing director Stephen Bailey recalls his overland journey along the Old Silk Road.

Some countries he visited are not so welcoming, like Turkmenistan. Others are wonders of the world, slowly opening to discerning travellers, like Jordan, Georgia and Uzbekistan.

In this article Stephen explains his journey and the experiences you can find in some of the world’s least visited countries.

The Silk Road?

Bukhara, Uzbekistan

The Silk Road was a network of trading routes stretching over 6000 kilometres, from ancient Egypt and the Roman Empire to China. It defined the world from 100 BC to 1500 AD.

I attempted to travel the Old Silk Road overland, exploring the ancient cities and cultures along the way. This was before the pandemic, when I was travel editor for Allied Newspapers.

I started in Egypt, travelled north to Turkey, then east to Georgia, Iran, the “stans,” Mongolia and China.

What amazed me most was how every country was a completely different experience. It still amazes me how few people visit some of these incredible countries.

Egypt

I have mixed feelings about Egypt. The ancient cities and ruins, like Luxor, are on a mindblowing scale. But it’s hard to relax, because of the heat and the constant hassle. A private guide is essential, somebody to take you counter to the crowds.

Jordan

Overland camping in the Wadi Rum Desert

Jordan is a small country offering a remarkable variety of unique experiences. It’s relaxed and welcoming, with good five-star accommodation too.

The ruins of Jerash in northern Jordan

Petra is the most famous attraction and you need three days to explore it all. Spend a night in a luxury camp in Wadi Rum desert, discover ancient cities like Jerash, and finish your holiday on the Dead Sea or Red Sea.

Iraq

Cafe culture in Iraqi Kurdistan

I was very fortunate to travel across Iraqi Kurdistan with a Kurdish freedom fighter. Hospitality is integral to the culture and on every evening we had multiple invitations to eat and sleep at a stranger’s house. Drinking 15 cups of very sugary tea is normal, every single day.

Iraqi Kurdistan

Unfortunately, instability means Iraq isn’t a viable destination. Which is a shame, because the hospitality I experienced was remarkable. Kurds fought with Brits and Americans against Saddam Hussein, so as a Brit I felt treated like a celebrity.

Turkey

Cappadocia

Istanbul is wondrous city, as I’m sure many of you know. Beach destinations like Antalya and Bodrum are amazing too. They epitomise a country that offers a lot more than people initially think.

Cappadocia was a major highlight of my entire trip. Not just hot air ballooning, also exploring underground cities and hiking in the mushroom-like landscape.

Georgia

Hiking in Georgia

Like Jordan, Georgia packs in an awesome set of experiences in a small country. The mountains and nature are incredible, unlike anything I’ve seen elsewhere in Europe. It feels like a country where time has stood still, where history and ancient culture are integral to the here and now.

Georgia is now an exotic adventure for luxury travellers. At EliteVoyage we partner with Sky Travel, local specialists who have helped our clients enjoy holidays by helicopter across Georgia.

Iran

Some mosques in Iran are open to non Muslims, like this one in Isfahan

Iran reflects a commonly forgotten truth: the people of a country have different beliefs to the rulers of a country. Iranian people are amazing, truly hospitable, educated, interesting and keen to show visitors around. The Iranians I met didn’t understand Iranian politicians either!

Nagshe e Jahan, Isfahan

Unfortunately, Iran is hard to visit. Unfortunate because it has some of the wonders of the world. Like the Silk Road city of Isfahan, still the most beautiful old city I’ve ever experienced.

Turkmenistan

Golden statues of Turkmenistan’s former leader are all over Ashgabat.

The most bizarre country on the planet? Where the capital city Ashgabat is built almost exclusively from marble and gold. And a gas crater burns continually in the desert.

These apartments in Ashgabat are built from marble

I was interrogated for arriving illegally, followed by police for taking a photo of the fake Olympic Stadium, and had my hotel room bugged. Still, I have fond memories!

Uzbekistan

Samarkand

Uzbekistan should be on everybody’s travel bucket list. The ancient Silk Road cities are works of art, lenses into how our world was around 1000 years ago.

Bukhara

Samarkand is the most famous, although I found Bukhara to be more impressive. Travel to Uzbekistan is becoming easier and it’s now a very viable standalone destination for a discerning traveller.

Kyrgyzstan

After five days of horse riding I never wanted to see a horse again. But after 11 days I felt I could keep riding for months.

In Kyrgyzstan I achieved my lifelong dream of going on a horseback expedition with nomads. I spent 11 days on horseback, crossing mountains and valleys, staying with nomads on route.

Nomadic families welcomed me into their homes. The family slept in one yurt so their guest could sleep in the other.

It was an adventure made possible by a community tourism organisation, who created a network of guides, horse owners and nomadic hosts.

Kyrgyzstan proved that no matter how outlandish your travel dreams, they are achievable in the hands of talented people.

Pakistan

Climbing Rushe Peak, 5010 metres

Pakistan is an adventure destination for hikers that doesn’t have the tourist infrastructure of its Himalayan neighbour, Nepal.

Never again have I encountered landscapes like those in northern Pakistan. Some of the world’s highest mountains literally climb straight from the side of the road.

Baltoro glacier

In Pakistan I also travelled up the old Khyber Pass towards Afghanistan, where I met a tribal chief growing fat and rich on opium trading. His gun collection was frightening.

India

Golden Temple, Amritsar

I’ve been very fortunate to visit India three times over the last decade. The speed at which the country is modernising is incredible.

On this Silk Road trip I only visited the northwest. Highlights were experiencing a border closing ceremony in Amritsar and the main pilgrimage place for Sikhs.

Ceremony on the border between India and Pakistan

India is fascinating, colourful and completely different to anywhere else. If you have any interest in going, you should go. India is also far more luxurious than everyone realises, with some hotels to rival the best in the world.

China

Haggling for sheep in a Uighur livestock market, near Kashgar

China was the one country I didn’t enjoy on my entire trip. I found it to be dirty, overbearing, and very difficult to travel in, due to language barriers and long distances.

I met Uighur people in the old Silk Road town of Kashgar, an eye-opening insight into the persecution minorities face in China.

Mongolia

Mongolia was the one country I most wish to return to! Thanks to its wide open spaces, welcoming nomadic culture, and sense of adventure.

Mongolia is a destination for off the beaten path adventures. If you want to feel freedom, silence or space, this is the place for you.

Are you an Explorer?

I edit Explorer magazine by EliteVoyage, showcasing the world’s upcoming places, people and properties.

During my travels I’ve learnt that many places have awesome things to offer, they’re just not marketed or accessible to mass tourism.

Part of my job now is to discover how our clients can have safe, comfortable and luxurious adventures, in destinations people don’t usually visit.

Saint Augustine famously said: “the world is a book and those who do not travel only read the first page.”

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