Petr Udavský returns from an exploratory trip to Colombia. He explains the travel experience and what awaits you in this misunderstood country.
Colombia is a beautiful destination. The variety of environments, destinations and things to do is fantastic.
This was my first time in South America and I came with an open mind and without expectations. I came to soak up all the impressions and understand what is worth it for our clients.
On this exploratory trip I visited Bogota, Cali, Valle del Cauca, Cartagena and Isla Baru. At each destination I had local guides and a program of experiences.
Colombia is definitely somewhere for the more adventurous, who would easily enjoy ten days or two weeks discovering different parts of the country.
Bogota
Bogota is Colombia’s main entry and exit city. I flew via Amsterdam to Bogota, with KLM. There is also a convenient flight connection with Lufthansa.
I walked through the streets with a guide and witnessed lots of street art, something that is plentiful across the country.
We went by cable car to Monserrate, a monastery over 3000 meters above sea level. Here we enjoyed great views over Bogota.
Two nights is enough in Bogota. Although it’s a massive city, you can see the most interesting parts in two days, then save your time for more diverse and attractive places, like the Amazon or Pacific Coast.
Flying into Cartagena and skipping Bogota will make sense for clients who aren’t interested in a big city experience.
Four Seasons Hotel Bogota has a perfect location in the city centre, surrounded by shopping, restaurants and bars. However, the rooms feel cramped and the hotel lacks a feeling of space.
If you prefer a more charming and authentic hotel then I’d recommend Four Seasons Casa Medina, which is a five-minute drive away from the action. The rooms are superior, there’s a nice traditional touch, and overall a much better feeling.
I also inspected Sofitel Hotel Bogota, which benefits from a great location and can be an option for some clients. And W Bogota, which personally I found to be far too modern for the overall atmosphere in Colombia and Bogota.
Cali & Valle del Cauca
The airports in Colombia are clean, easy and convenient. It was a 45-minute flight from Bogota to Cali. Flying is usually always recommended in Colombia, as the country’s topography means highways are limited and driving takes a long time.
After a short walking tour in Cali and a coffee workshop we moved to the jungle for a couple of nights.
I stayed at Arancana Lodge in Valle del Cauca, a very nice experience on the Pacific side of Colombia.
This Pacific part of Colombia is very green and not touristic. It’s pure nature. We did a walking tour through the rainforest, crossing streams, swimming in waterfalls and natural pools.
It’s pure nature, extremely green with lots of birds. We did a walking tour through the rainforest, visited a local community, swam in natural pools and enjoyed nature.
We rafted on the river and visited a local village, where we were welcomed by the community and had a great local lunch.
Personally I didn’t find Cali so interesting, but Valle del Cauca was a great experience, really authentic and different to places I’ve visited before.
Araucana Lodge is famous for bird watching and we spotted many species, including hummingbirds.
Cartagena
Cartagena is a different world compared to Cali and Bogota. It’s a very lively and colourful city, one of the best places to visit in Colombia.
This is also Colombia’s best-known destination and I recommend at least three nights. It’s a very pretty World Heritage city with a lot to see and a wide choice of experiences.
I strolled the streets, explored the hipster Getsemaní neighbourhood and the old walled city. It’s beautiful and fun, although it’s also a very touristic place.
Cartagena also has Colombia’s best collection of hotels. I stayed at Casa Pastagua, which is the city’s best hotel in terms of rooms, service and gastronomy. This is the only Relais & Chateaux property in all of Colombia.
It’s a charming property in an historic building, full of character and atmosphere. The location in the old city is perfect too. Their sister property Casa San Augustín is also a very good choice.
Sofitel Legend Santa Clara Cartagena is a much larger hotel worth considering for families. It has better facilities but the general impression was weaker. There’s a Four Seasons opening in Cartagena early next year as well.
Isla Baru
Cartagena is the jumping off point for exploring Colombia’s Caribbean coastline.
One option is to fly by helicopter to Tayrona, where you can stay in a private villa by the beach, like Villa Ayrona and Tewimake Lodge. It’s possible to rent a room in these properties, you don’t need to buy out the entire property.
I went instead to Isla Baru in the Rosario Islands, a one hour by speedboat from Cartagena. In the Caribbean Sea, this is the most popular place for the beach part of a Colombia holiday.
Here you will find good beaches, along with some private islands and villas for a relaxing beach stay.
I stayed at Sofitel Baru, the only five-star beach resort in this part of Colombia. It’s a big resort that works for a couple of days enjoying the beach, with boat excursions in the archipelago.
Another option is Hotel Las Islas Baru, a rustic and sustainable hotel with a very natural feel. Accommodation is in treehouses and some clients will prefer the style here to the larger Sofitel Baru.
Other Destinations to Discover in Colombia
It’s diversity that makes Colombia such an attractive destination.
I knew Colombia was a big country but the contrast between the destinations I visited was remarkable. Modern city, rainforest, old Caribbean city, island…in only eight days.
Everywhere was different in terms of people, nature, architecture, style and atmosphere. Then there was so much more I didn’t visit.
Next time I’d definitely go to the Amazon, where you can go on hikes, boat trips and fish for piranhas.
Another option is the undeveloped Pacific coast, where Black Sands Lodge could be a great place for a fishing adventure!
I went to Cali and Valle del Cauca, but you could also choose to visit Medellin and Guatape in the coffee region instead.
Is Colombia Safe?
When our clients are interested in Colombia they all have concerns about safety and security. The country’s history and reputation means people are understandably scared.
You really do feel safe in Colombia. Concerns about security should not be a reason to miss out on this beautiful country.
The Colombian cartels are not fighting against each other. There are dangerous parts in big Colombian cities, but you can easily recognise them and it’s very unlikely you will go there.
I do recommend always having a guide anyway. They take you to cool places, teach you about the history, help you really understand and connect with the culture.
Guides can also take you to interesting neighbourhoods which used to be dangerous places. With a guide you can understand how they’ve changed.
My Overall Impressions of Travel in Colombia
Luxury in Colombia is about the experiences, authenticity and nature. Rather than luxury in terms of service, hotels and Michelin gastronomy.
You can feel that the luxury travel industry is less developed here. People are doing their best and services are developing, so I expect travel to Colombia will only improve in the coming few years.
Services for luxury travel do exist. For example, you can comfortably helicopter to remote locations across the country, something Jeff Bezos did on his holiday to Colombia.
There’s a huge difference between a Four Seasons hotel in Europe and a Four Seasons hotel in Colombia.
Colombia is very good value from a European perspective. A high-level itinerary to the country’s very best places and hotels is significantly cheaper than most other countries.
Are You Interested in Colombia?
Colombia is a country for a highly curated itinerary. It’s not a destination for everyone and it’s important to have the right expectations before you travel.
Colombia is for curious travellers who like fast touring between locations and a busy program of things to do.
The nature is beautiful, the people are friendly, every destination is a discovery and you can combine countless experiences into a single trip.
It’s important you have the right expectations before a trip and it’s our job to prepare our clients’ expectations before they travel.
I will advise clients personally about the many options and our team of travel designers will curate a trip to every last detail.
Interested in Colombia?
